Ah it's good to be training again

[Chesapeake]

Had a good training day today.

We worked on steadying up Cash. He figured it out after a few wayward releases before he was released and came to the end of the leash.

Now we can sit, stay, wait, throw the dummy then send him out.

What command do you use when you release ?

I have resorted to his name "CASH" but wonder if I should use a different command like "Fetch it up" or "Fetch" Any thoughts on this ?

[Drew Good]

Hey Chesapeake,

Most people do send their dog's using their names. It is also a good thing in case you ever decide to hunt over 2 dogs, that way when you say "Cash" only he would leave where as if you say "fetch it up" or Fetch" they would both leave.

And yes it is great to see grass and open water again.:spoton: It makes training so much nicer, the only down fall is like today. I took 2 black labs out training and brought back two chocolate labs (at least that's what they looked like afterwards :cheesy: ) The mud is bad but it's better than snow. I went down to the lake but there is still a little ice on the shore. The ponds are open but very fridged...

Drew

[Kevin Hannah]

You should use his name for the release. It avoids confusion on the line when honoring with another dog. The only thing you need to worry about is going to the line with another dog named Cash.

I do know guys however that release their dogs on fetch or back on marks and blinds.

Kevin

[Drew Good]

You should use his name for the release. It avoids confusion on the line when honoring with another dog. The only thing you need to worry about is going to the line with another dog named Cash

Good point Kev, I forgot all about that.:doh:

Drew

[case]

Chesapeake,

I learned from Uplander to use a tap on the head as my release signal. That way a wayward word from another competitor won't release her.

[AD18]

I use "back" for both marks and blind retrieves. I did some basic obediance work and they always preceded the command with the dogs name, then the command and both the dog and I got confused at first. I'm used to it now so that's all I use. All in all the dogs name for mark release is probably better. As for touching for release if you are going to play CKC or HRC hunt test can't touch.

[nimkii]

I release Abbie on her name for marks. When I get to the level of running blinds I'll use "Back".

[Kevin Hannah]

Chesapeake,

I learned from Uplander to use a tap on the head as my release signal. That way a wayward word from another competitor won't release her.

You will have to stop that ASAP, if you ever run the dog in a test or trial you are not allowed to touch the dog for any reason once you signal that you are ready, a tap on the head will get you DQ'ed before he even picks up a bird.

This is one example of the differences in training between upland work and retriever work.

Kevin

[Jixer]

Tap on the head is for pointing dogs. Only allowed to touch the dog for the release. It is this way because most people that use a verbal release use "OK". When being completely steady through flush and shot means the difference between a good run and being disqualified, you don't want to take any chances that your competitor may "accidentally" release your dog.:opps:

[Maverick]

Yea, " ACCIDENTALLY" ....:angry:
I have been using the double tap on the top of the head for a while to release the dog.
Never seen a retriever person use it and after reading this thread I understand why.

Mav.....


Tap on the head is for pointing dogs. Only allowed to touch the dog for the release. It is this way because most people that use a verbal release use "OK". When being completely steady through flush and shot means the difference between a good run and being disqualified, you don't want to take any chances that your competitor may "accidentally" release your dog.:opps:

[Kevin Hannah]

You should get into the habit of not touching the dog at all once the dog is training at say the seasoned or senior level. I have seen lots of people while judging reach down and touch the dog during a test and you know by the way they do it it is just something they do training all the time. I usually simple warn them and they carry on, you will not recieve a warning at finished though.

Kevin

[Chesapeake]

WOW ! what an informative thread...

I don't plan to compete with Cash. I'll be happy if he can retreive through a spread of 200 decoys in late November.

The name thing will be interesting though as there may come a day that we hunt over two dogs. The other is Cash's dad....."Crash" who is also released by name....

[Kevin Hannah]

WOW ! what an informative thread...

I don't plan to compete with Cash. I'll be happy if he can retreive through a spread of 200 decoys in late November.

The name thing will be interesting though as there may come a day that we hunt over two dogs. The other is Cash's dad....."Crash" who also is released by name....

You don't plan on testing him right now, once you work with him and he progresses through his training you may change your mind and you would then have a veryy big hurdle to overcome before you could think about running him.

The other thing to do is when you are sending him on a mark put your hand out in front of him (outside of his line of sight) and then say his name to release him. Over time he will learn that the bird goes down, then the hand comes out (means get ready) and then his name for the release. My older male dog will not move now even if I yell his name unless my hand is down. You would only do this on the go bird, no hand down on memory birds.

Kevin

[Chesapeake]

I'll have to get some video to explore this. Let me see if I understand it correctly.

When training.

1) Throw the training dummy
2) place left hand out in front of dog
3) mark
4) drop hand and release

Regarding the hand. Cash heels and steadys on the left. So my left hand is extended. Is it palm down to the ground or is my hand perpendicular to the ground (palm toward me like a karate chop)

[AD18]

My 2 cents:

1. Say "mark" to cue the mark is going to be thrown.
2. Throw mark.
3. Place hand above head about 4 inches and between the eyes. This gives dog the que, but does not block any vision.
4. Release on name and let the dog run out from under your hand. Don't move hand until dog is gone.

This is personal preference. I don't use hand until running blinds. It is a good signal for dog to get used to though.

[franklauzon]

Moving the hand is a bad idea, as it adds distraction. You want your dog to mark, and keep focused on that mark, unless you're running a double. Last thing you need is for your dog to lose focus because you moved your hand.

[Chesapeake]

Another successful training session this morning. Worked on a few problems and tried the "time out" tactic. It seemed to have an effect.

Ended on a positive note with a successful double retrieve then played some ball and back to the kennel.

[case]

It sure is great to be out training again. I found it to be a long winter. Little Lady , my derby dog was HOT to-day:bigrin . We've got a big trial this week-end and the Derby Annual Classic is coming soon so I've got my fingers crossed. Yes, I'm sorry. I'm competitive.